As you may have noticed, there are four settings on the Bind-it-All, each of them described in writing on the side of the machine by the stop guide slide:

Open: We also like to call this setting “A for Artistic,” because this setting allows you to punch and bind odd things or in odd ways. When it is set on Open, the Bind-it-All’s punching slot is completely clear on either end. You can punch right in the middle of a 12 x 12 chipboard with no problem.

Punch CDs and vinyl record albums in this setting, as well.

Continuous: This setting is the one that makes it possible to create the longest wire-bound book on record – or anything that needs to be bound longer than 4 inches.

Make your first punch on one end with either the C or D setting, (Figure 1) depending on whether or not you are punching the cover or the inner pages (read below for more details on C and D). Once the first punch is made, remove your item and set the Bind-it-All on the B setting. There is a small, “Bind-it-All hole”-sized tab (Figure 2) in the back of the stop guide slide.

Place the tab in to the second to the last hole you just punched in your item (Figure 3).

Making sure your item is flat on the bottom of the Bind-it-All punching slot; punch the next set of holes.

Continue through the length of your item until you are about 2-3 inches from the end.

Figure 1

Now is the time for some thinking. And some test run-throughs on some scrap paper until you get the hang of it.

Because the Bind-it-All was designed to be so universal in its use, there has to be a small amount of customization and planning on your part when you make a larger-sized item.

To punch holes in the end of your item without punching the edge to make an odd half-hole notch, take your item and, using the painted rectangles on the top of the Bind-it-All that shows where the holes will be punched, estimate where you want the holes to end.

Set the Bind-it-All on the A (Open) setting and, keeping the already-punched holes and the rectangles in alignment, slide your item into the punching slot.

The space where you want the last hole to be should be aligned with the last hole, furthest from the stop guide slide (Figure 4).

You should also try to have the same amount of unpunched edge on both ends. For example, if a half inch was on one end before the first hole was punched, you should try to do the same at the end, so the project doesn’t looks balanced (Figure 5).

Punch.

Don’t be frustrated if your first tests don’t work out quite the way you planned. Try again. Testing on scraps is very important so you don’t ruin an important project.

Cover: As with many books, albums and journals, some of the projects you work on may have a slightly larger covers than inner pages, so the inner pages are protected from wear and tear.

The Cover setting starts the punches so that there is a bit of a lip to hang over the inner pages with the book is closed. When punching in this setting, make sure the item is flat against the bottom of the punching slot, and all the way against the stop guide.

Inner Pages: When the Bind-it-All is set on D, the sliding stop guide inserts a small tab into the punching slot so the inner page punches start slightly closer to the edge of the paper than the cover’s punches – that way the inner pages are centered perfectly along the cover’s spine and there is an equal amount of chipboard cover on both sides when the book is closed. When punching in this setting, make sure the item is flat against the bottom of the punching slot, and all the way against the stop guide.

This will instruct on how to bind projects so that the seam where the wire comes together is inside the book and behind the inner pages. This will prevent the seam from being visible on the outer spine or from being visible when the front cover is opened.

1) Arrange your mini book so the covers and pages are positioned in the finished order.

2) Flip the back cover around to the front. The two covers should be face-to-face, in this order: inside back cover on top facing up, front cover and then the inner pages.

3) Using the appropriate number of loops – according to the number of punched hoinsert the small loops into the punched holes – inserting toward the inside back cover.

4) Place the project on the pressing platform of the Bind-it-All, with the open wire side down, like a bug on its feet. Using less pressure than when making the punches, press the Bind-it-All handle all the way down until it stops. Heavy pressure is not needed. Release the handle. Flip the back cover into proper order. The seams should be on the inside of the project, behind the inner pages.

Zutter Innovative Products currently offers five sizes and colors of owire designed

specifically for use with the Bind-it-All tool.

Colors: Black, white, silver, red and brown (sometimes listed as gold.)

To ensure perfect binding and prevent damage to your Bind-it-All and wires, it is important that you set your machine to the correct wire setting, according to the size of the wire you use.

There are two ways to do this:

1) The Bind-it-All comes with a plastic “key chain” of wire guide templates. The templates consists of owire illustrations shown in actual size. Zutter wire sizes can be found on the outside of each package of wire.

2) When setting the Bind-it-All for a particular wire size, place the appropriately sized template guide into the press area; turning the adjustable knob until the wire guide is held upright by the machine. Back the pressure off just a bit and remove the wire guide. Your machine is now set for the appropriate diameter.

3) If you don’t have the wire guides with you, twist the knob at the front of the Bind-it-All until it is placed on the line above the diameter of wire you are using. Place it on the outside lines, not the one that dips in the center. The example photo (below left) is set at ¾ inch.

4) If you are using a stray piece of wire, and you don’t know the exact size, you can compare the wire you have to the picture of the wire diameter on the template guide.